Kagbeni in Nepal's Mustang District is situated about 10 km upstream (nortwards) from the district capital Jomsom. Kagbeni is inhabited by around 1000 people in around 300 households. Most are from the Gurung ethnicity, which is predominant in the areas of the Annapuna Circuit Trek. The Gurung speak a Sino-Tibetan language and are sometimes considered Bhotias (Tibetans) in a wider sense, the latter not being a specific ethnicity, but a group of various ethnicities with various languages. Bhotias in a narrow sense, mainly inhabiting the Manang region on the opposite side of the Thorong La pass, are by far outnumbered by Gurung people.
Location and NamE of Kagbeni
Kagbeni serves as the administrative center of the Varagung Muktichhetra Rural Municipality, better known as Bahargaun, which is one of five such administrational units in Nepal's Mustang District. Though the ancient name means "twelfe villages", the modern Varagung Muktichhetra Rural Municipality consists of five wards, Kagbeni and Muktinath being the best known ones.
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Kagbeni is located in at an altitude of 2800 to 2850 m (9200 to 9350 feet) above sea level on the left (eastern) bank of the Kali Gandaki, where the ancient salt trade route from Tibet via Mustang to India had to cross the Jhong river. The tributary known as "Jhong Khola" (also transkribed "Dzong Kola") rises in the Mustang region further east. The word Kagbeni is a combination of a Tibetan ans a Nepali word. The Tibetan "kag" means "block" or "core", whereas the Nepali term "beni" refers to the confluence of two rivers. A confluence of rivers is often regarde sacred in Hindu beliefs, this is why Hindu pilgrims in their way to Muktinath use to perform Shraddha rituals to their deceased ancestors in Kagbeni. Due to the combination of sufficient water supply and very strong sunlight, crops grow fast in the oases of the Kali Gandaki valley.
The village of Kagbeni, belonging to Lower Mustang, is the gateway to Upper Mustang, because the Jhong Kola marks the border to Upper Mustang (Dalome and Lomanthang), access to which requires a special permit. But it's usually possible to walk or drive a few kilometers upstream the Kali Gandaki river without that permit, as long as one can return to Kagbeni on the same day. The village of Tiri, in only one kilometer distance on the other side of the Kali Gandaki river, is already in Upper Mustang. Despite the access restrictions, Tiri also provides accommodation that sometimes can be used without Upper Mustung permit. Just like Kagbeni, Tiri stands in a little green oasis in the otherwise desertlike landscape of Mustang. Local farmers grow mainly barley, corn, buckwheat, and very big potatoes.
Medieval Townscape of Kagbeni
The medieval village is closely packed mud brick houses. Kagbeni has preserved a large part of those tradional buildings, but only ruins remain from a former palace called Kag Khar that is said to have had 108 rooms. Chhortens, prayer mills and prayer flags contribute to the air of the village. Mani stones, plates or pebbles inscribed with mantras, can be seen in large numbers in Kagbeni.
The village was once surrounded by a defence wall, traces of which can still be seen. The guardian deity, typical of Gurung villages, is a remnant of the Bon religion. The original two entry gates were guarded by so-called Khenis, large primitive figures, one being a woman, the other one being a man. The latter is depicted with an erect phallus. The statues known as Khenis reflect pre-Buddhist animistic traditions of the Tibetan Bon religion. As apotropaic demons they deter malevolent other demons from entering or they even fight them by devouring them. This is why they are called ghost eaters. Khenis are a characteristic feature of fortified Gurung villages in particular. The Kheni figures in Kagbeni are about 200 years old.
Red House Lodge
One of the first homestays in Kagbeni, opened soon after trekkers where permitted to enter Mustang, is the "Red House". The ancient mansion, preserving its traditional charme, has almost two dozen bedrooms, most of them with attached toilet. The Red House has its own shrine with a large Buddha statue and a collection of ancient manuscripts. Red House Lodge contributed much that Annapurna Circuit trekkers preferred Kagbeni ober Jomson, which is dominated by modern buildings.
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Tibetan Monastery - Kag Chode Thupten Samphel Ling Gompa
The Tibetan monastery of Kagbeni, located just at the confluence of the two rivers, is known as Kag Chode Thupten Samphel Ling Gompa. The name of the Gompa identifies it as a "place for standing still in concentration on the teachings of the Buddha". It's considered one of the most important Shakya Pa sect monasteries in the region, which has several temples of this ancient Tibetan sect. The Gompa of Kagbeni was founded by a Shakya scholar from Tibet in 1429. The monastery is said to have housed almost 100 monks in its heydays. Today, there are a few dozen monks and novices, but it also attracts novices from Tibetan-speaking (Bhotia) villages in other districts such as Dolpa. The young man are educated not only in Buddhist teachings, but also in secular subjects such as mathematics and English.
The monastery has two ceremonial halls for the highest rituals, an ancient and a modern one. It's not permitted to take photos in the ancient hall. The new one is just beside of it. The altar of monastery displays bronze icons of Sakyamuni Buddha flanked by his disciples Sariputra and Maudgalyana, the latter is easily recognizable by its dark skin.
The monastery has two ceremonial halls for the highest rituals, an ancient and a modern one. It's not permitted to take photos in the ancient hall. The new one is just beside of it. The altar of monastery displays bronze icons of Sakyamuni Buddha flanked by his disciples Sariputra and Maudgalyana, the latter is easily recognizable by its dark skin.
The views from Kagbeni and the surrounding hills go to Daulagiri in the southwest, Mount Nilgiri in the south, Tilicho Peak in the southeast, and Thorung Peak in the east.
Kagbeni celebrates mainly four annual festivals. Chhongu is a colourful 7-days New Year celebration with costume dances in January. During the 5-days Dhajyang in April/May an archery competion is held, too. Fangel for securing good health is celebrated in August. The horse racing festival of Yartung follows immediately afterwards.
Kagbeni celebrates mainly four annual festivals. Chhongu is a colourful 7-days New Year celebration with costume dances in January. During the 5-days Dhajyang in April/May an archery competion is held, too. Fangel for securing good health is celebrated in August. The horse racing festival of Yartung follows immediately afterwards.