After the end of the civil war in 2009, the northern part of the Eastern Province of Sri Lanka has been developed into a new beach holiday destination. This makes a lot of sense, as the summer holidays in countries of the northern hemisphere fall into Sri Lanka's main monsoon season, which is off-season at the tradtional beach restorts in the southwest of the country. The climate in the northeast is completely different from that. At the beaches of Trincomalee and Batticaloa Districts, first and foremost Nilaveli Beach resp. Pasikuda Beach, the northern summer months are the driest period of the year, hence inviting families with children to tracel to this region.
Seruwawila Archeological Site on the way from Nilaveli Beach near Trincomalee to Pasikuda Beach near Batticaloa
Nilaveli Beach - and its hinterland in Trincomalee District
Trincomalee in the very northeast of the island is the capital and most important town of the Eastern Province. It has one of the best natural harbours in the world, actually the very best according to Lord Nelson. The centre of the town is on a spit between the harbour bay and the ocean. The main attractions of Trincomalee, however, are siturated on a promontory stretching eastwards into the ocean. Atop the cliffs is the rebuilt Koneshvaram temple. Though only one of four Ishvarams of Sri Lanka, which are regarded as the most important Shiva temples, Koneshvaram is arguably the most revered of all of them and one of the three largest traditional Tamil sanctuaries in Sri Lanka, the other two being Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil near Jaffna, dedicated to Lord Murugan, and Nagapooshi Amman Kovil dedicated to the mother goddess, on Nainativu island. Koneshvaram Kovil is also an important Ramayana pilgrimage site. The original temple, held in high esteem in Sri Lanka and India alike, was destroyed by Portuguese soldiers on behalf or their Christian religious leadership. Pillars of the ancient temple can still be found in the sea, just below the cliffs of the promontory. The flat part of the promontory, being the link to the centre of Trincomalee city, is occupied by the Dutch colonial Fort Frederic. The most noteworthy of numerous Hindu shrines in the centre of the town is dedicated to Shiva's consort Kali.
Only 10 km outside town is another pilgrimage site named Kanniyai. Though small in size, it's frequented by lots of Hindu devotees who come here to take a ritual bath or more precisely: a shower with a bucket. Kanniyai is one of the few places in Sri Lanka with hotwells. They are not clean enough to invite Western visitors to get wet, too. But what's interesting about this place is the religious atmosphere.
Just 4 km to the north of Kanniyai is a rarely visited archaeogical site. Velgam Vehera is historically of extraordinary interest, as this temple from the Anuradhapura is one of the few that were not plundered but actually enlarged and embellished during foreign occupation of Sri Lanka in the first half of the 11th century. The Indian Cholas actually permitted or even supported the construction of Buddhist temples at the coasts of India and Sri Lanka, as there were Tamil Buddhists those days and they played an important role in maritime trade. The largest edifice in Velgam Vehera is an image house in ruins, but the statue is still in situ. Image houses on such a large scale became a typical feature of religious architecture in the subsequent Polonnaruwa period of Sinhalese history.
Sri Lanka's longest sandy beach is Nilaveli 10 km north of Trincomalee. It's framed by the coral banks of pigeon island to the north, which can easily be reached on boat tours. Another rewarding boat tour destination is Sinnakarachchi Lagoon just behind Nilaveli. Uppuveli Beach in between Nilaveli and Trincomalee City is not as long but has the best hotel in the northeast of Sri Lanka.
The greatest heritage attraction of Trincomalee District is Thiriyai, also known as Tiriyaya. Situated 30 km north of the tourist hub Nilaveli Beach, it's still off the beaten path. The archaeological site is at the slopes and on the summit of a small hill. The very top is crowned by a Vatadage, a circular temple. Besides Polonnaruwa and Medirigiriy, this is one of the three best specimens of this characteristic type of ancient Sinhalese architecture. Thiriyai has lot's of very elaborate Nagaraja steles, which seem to be slightly older than those of Anuradhapura.
Travelling from Trincomalee to Batticaloa along the northeastern coastline of Sri Lanka, you will cross the area of Seruvila, also known as Seruwaila. This is a religious site of utmost importance to Sinhalese Buddhists, as it is the only place on the island which is believe to have relics of all four previous Buddhas from our aeon. THe only other place of this kind is no less than the large gilded Shwedagon Chedi in Yangon in Myanmar. Around the central white stupa of Seruvila is a large compound of ruins of an ancient monastery. A small museum is attached to the archaeological site.
Pasikuda Beach - and its hinterland in Batticaloa District
Pasikudah Beach has shallow waters stretching far into the sea and is safe and highly recommendable for children. Afer 2010 it was developed into an attractive beach holiday destinations with a good choice of very modern and comfortable hotels. Pasikuda is a good starting point for half-say and full-day excursions to Polonnaruwa and Dimbulagala in the Cultura Triangle. Closer bye is pinpoint inselberg Toppigala in the nature reserve of the same name. The very top of the monadnock can be climbed.
30 km south of Pasikudah is Batticaloa. It's at the opening of Sri Lanka's largest and most winding lagoon. Batticaloa has several Hindu temples. Architecturally, they are not imposing. But their temple festivals are among the most authentic you can find anywhere in Sri Lanka. The Dutch Fort protected the opening of the lagoon. The ocean beaches are a less crowded alternative to Pasikudah, accomodation is much cheaper in the area of Batticaloa.
There are several ancient sites in the hinterland to the southwest of Batticaloa and Kalmunai, which is the largest town of the Eastern Province. Dighavapi has the largest ancient stupa in the eastern plains of Sri Lanka and it's held in high esteem as the only Buddha-visited place in this part of the island. A rarely visited but highly attractive archaeological site is Rajagala to the north of Ampara. It's in 5o km road distance from Batticaloa.
You would like to see improvements on this page or share your own travel impressions? Don't hesitate to comment...