Sri Lanka's Northwestern Province, known as Wayamba Palata among locals, comprises two districts. Puttalam District is the coastal region with two major beach holiday destinations, namely Marawila for club holidays and Kaplpitiya Peninsula for dolphin watching and kitesurfing. Kurunegala District is the inland region.
This area was once known as Dakkinddesha, which translates to "southern land". The ancient name refers to its location to the south of the capital Anuradhapura. Dakkhinadesha was one of the four major divisions of the Anuradhapura Kingdom and became the allodium base of the crown prince. The region became increasingly important in the Polonnaruwa period, when it was the power base of Parakramabahu the Great, from where he gained the throne in Polonnaruwa. After the Polonnaruwa period, the area became even the very centre of the Sinhalese civilisation. Three capitals of the late medieval period are situated in towday's Kurunegala District, namely Dambadeniya, Yapahuwa, and Kurunegala itself. Due to the historical role the Kurunagala region played in antiquity and the Middle Ages, it should come to no surprise that it is a hub of archaeological sites, second in number only to Anuradhapura District in the Cultural Triangle. Surprisingly, this is less known to foreign tourists, most of whom use to cross this region on their way from the airport to the Cultur Triangle without any stop. But that's fine for us, because it means that the attractions of the northwestern inland region of Sri Lanka have remained untouched and are even more attractive for those travelers who take notice of them.
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To the north of Kurunegala - Yapahuwa & RiDigama & more
We start our overview by introducing Kurunegala town not because it's the most important historical site but just because it's the capital of Sri Lanka's "North West". It was the capital of the island in the late 13th century. But not much has remained from that period. So it's well worth a short detour. Kurunegala is crossed by many travelers, because it is literally at the crossroads of major roads in the island, from Colombo and Negombo to the north and northeast and from Kandy to Puttalam. Kurunegala's main attraction is its backyard rock, the quite impressive monadnock known as "elephant rock" or in Sinhala as "Eth Gala" accordingly. A small road leads almost to the top. The western slope carries a modern giant Buddha statue, which was built in the early years of our century. It's by far the best lookout in town. A Muslim prince is said to have been knocked off the cliff. But to appease his ghost Buddhists and Muslims alike now venerate him as the guardian of the region. The Buddhist temple is at the foot of the rock, where the prince died, whereas the Muslim tomb is at the said road to the top. A tree is growing out of his coffin, indicating his lasting power.
The main attraction of Kurunegala District is Yapahuwa to the north of Kurunegala, on the way to Anuradhapura. Yapahuwa is not completely off the beaten path, even some bus groups visit the place. But it's still not overcrowded and left out on most itineraries. Most tourists don't know that they are missing one of the most exciting places in Sri Lanka at all. Yapahuwa got the nickname "Sri Lanka's second Sigiriya". Indeed, there are some similarities, though both sites are from completely different periods, Sigiriya from the 5th century AD and Yapahuwa from the 13th century AD. Both places have isolated and extraordiarily steep monadnocks, which served as royal palaces. Both rocks are surrounded by strong multiple fortifications. Both rocks have caves that were once inhabited and decorated by monks, though in different periods. Both sites have their main attractions on the way to the top of the rock. Last not least, both rocks are magnificent 360-degree panorama vantage points. Yapahuwa's main attraction is a stairway. But this is an extraordinarily prestigeous stairway. It's wonderfully decorated with the best carvings from the late medieval period. The lion sculptures have become iconic. But also the best depictions of musicians and dancers can be seen at the great Yapahuwa stairway.
There are several more archaeological sites of some significance in the surroundings of Yapahuwa and to the north of Kurunegala town. Traveling from Yapahuwa further northwards to Anuradhapura, you should not miss a small detour to Haththikuchchi, also known by its modern name Rangana. The ancient name is known from a rock inscription and translates to "elephant's stomach". Haththikuchhi is an idyllic place, the ruins are surrounded by several steep rocks. The rock shelter with the best view to the entire ancient site is known as "Sirisanghabo's cave". Sirisanghabo did not play a big role in Sri Lanka's history. But he is the most popular Sinhalese king at all, almost revered like a saint. The reason is that he abdicated to avoid a civil war and that he afterwards sacrificed his life for the wellbeing of a peasant even though the latter was on the way to kill Sirisanghabo. Hatthikuchchi had been a place of worship for this saintly king already in antiquity. A stupa house is the main edifice. In contrast to most other so-called Chetiyagaras it has not a circular but a square layout.
To the southwest of Yapahuwa (and northwest of Kurunegala) are two places of interest that are quite different from one another but have one aspect in common: both are the "second-best" of its kind. Ridigama is one of the most impressive of the island's literally hundreds of painted caves, second only to Dambulla in the Cultural Triangle. And Arankale in between Yapahuwa and Ridigama is one of the enigmatic monasteries of the Pansukulika brotherhood in remote forests rich in medicinal herbs. In this respect, being a Pansukulika monastery at a forested hill, it's second only to Ritigala in the Cultural Triangle.
To the south of Yapahuwa, on the way from or to Kurunegala, is a small temple from the Kandy period. The wooden shrine of the Padeniya temple is one of the best preserved from the Kandyan period that can be found anywhere in the lowlands, the other one being the Vijayasundarama in Dambadeniya, see below. The wood carvings at the pillars in the temple are in the same style as those from the famous Embekke in the Kandyan Hills.
One direction is missing, isn't it? To the west of Yapahuwa, the most impressive destination is another isolated rock with a monastery. It's the Paramakanda near Anamaduwa. The cave temple is much less impressive than that of Ritigala. But what's charming at Paramakanda is that it's very easy to climb the rock. The stairway is not very long. But the views are nevertheless worth a short detour at least.
To the southwest - Dambadeniya & Panavitiya & Panduwasnuwara
A second region of the Kurunegala District that is has some intersting ancient sites that will still allow you to avoid the crowds is to the west, in between Kurunegala town and the west coast. Three places of interest are worth mentioning most of all in this southwestern part of the Wayamba Palata. Dambadeniya was the first Sinhalese capital outside the Cutlural Triangle. Though not much has remained from the mid 13th century, when Dambadeniya played a crucial role in Buddhist history. But there are two places of interest that really deserve to be considered for your itinerary. At the location of the former tooth temple is a wooden temple from the Kandyan period, the upper storey of which has preserved some of the best 18th century murals found anywhere outside the hillcountry. The second attraction is the former palace rock. Traces of the palace can still be studied on the summit, but what's even more alluring is the defense system at the stairway and the views into various directions from several vantage points at the escarpments. The entire summit is green and tranquil. The only voices you hear are those of birds.
Not far from Dambadeniya is a very small site that is almost unknown to foreign tourists, though it is attractive indeed. The Ambalama of Panavitiya is a typical hall from the Kandyan period. It once served as a simple resthouse for pilgrims and as a hut for locals who spent the hottest hours of the day in its shadow before returning to their work in the paddy fields. An Ambalama was also a kind of village court where assemblies where held. The Panavitiya Ambalama is not only the best preserved one, it is also very special in that it is richly decorated with wood carvings. Though the carvings are somewhat more naive and rustic, they are actually among the best ancient carvings in Sri Lanka, second only to Embekke near Kandy. One more Ambalama, but without carvings, can be found further north in Karagahagedara.
Further north, on the way from Kurunegala to Chilaw, is the largest excavation site of the Wayamba Palata. Panduwasnuwara was a settlement already in the Anuradhapura period. But what can be seen today is mostly from the Polonnaruwa period, when Panduwasnuwara was the capital of the western kingdom of Sri Lanka. The town was the residence of no less than Parakramabahu the Great, before he cam to power to Polonnaruwa. In a sense, Panduwasnuwara was a prototype of his residence in Polonnaruwa. Apart from the ruins of the royal palace, there are also stupas of former monasteries and a rebuilt former Tooth Temple, though it's debatable whether the Sacred Tooth Relic was ever kept in Panduwasnuwara. One structure, presumably older, is unique in Sri Lanka, a circular walled lawn with a tower in its very centre. It's shredded in mystery and believed to be the place of a kind of Sri Lankan version of the Rapunzel story.
Northwest Coast - Chilaw & Marawila & Kalpitiya
The Puttalam District along the coastline is less rich in archaeological sites. But apart from the beaches the Hindu shrines are worth noting. Three of them, found in the immediate surroundings of the fishing port of Chilaw alias Halavata, have become rather popular with Indian pilgrims. To the north of Chilaw is Manavari, an otherwise very unpretentious typical Kovil in the Tamil style, except from one feature that makes it extraordinary for Hindus. It enshrines one of the world's only two Shivalingas that were erected by Lord Brahma, an incarnation of Vishnu, the other Ramalinga being that of Rameshvaram. The significance of this kind of Lingam can be seen from the fact that Rameshvaram is the most important Hindu pilgrimage site to the south of River Ganges at all.
Rameshvaram, an island belonging to India's Tamil Nadu State is also special in that it is one of the five Maheshvarams, "large Shiva temples", the other four being situated on the island of Sri Lanka. One of them is Muneshvaram. Actually, this is even one of the two most important Shiva shrines on the island, besides Koneshvaram in Trincomalee. Muneshvaram just east of Chilaw is an entire temple town. Satellite temples are dedicated to other Hindu deities. But the main shrine for Shiva is by far the largest complex, comparable in size to the Kovils of southern India. The Muneshvaram temple is one of the very few Shiva sanctuaries that is held in high regard by Sinhalese Buddhists, too. Buddhists join the annual temple festivities, which last a full month and are thereby the longest of Sri Lanka.
A third Hindu shrine is found to the south of Chilaw, more precisely in Madampe. This temple dedicated to Shiva's son Murugan, known as Kataragama in Sri Lanka, has been built only recently on private initiative. But it's worth seeing, because it's immesely colourful and rich in new sculptural decoration.
The most important beach resort in the area of Chilaw is Marawila. The beach is nice, but most guests prefer the swimming pools of the large resorts. Among Sri Lankans, Marawila has a reputation of being the traditional centre of batiks. Indeed, many batiks you find in the shops of Negombo or Colombo are actually manufactured in Marawila. It's possible to visit one of the several workshops in town. Not many people know that the batik handicraft of Sri Lanka has a tradition as old as that of Java in Indonesia and has developed independently. This is to say: Sri Lankan batiks are original and not a fake product introduced by souvenir shops for tourists.
Kalpitiya Peninsula, sometimes erroneously called Kalpitiya Island, has become an increasingly popular beach holiday destination in recent years. The reason is that it has both long sandy beaches along the ocean and protected coves suitable for children, too. There are particularly two activities for which Kalpitiya is Sri Lanka's best destination at all, viz. kitesurfing and dolphin watching. There are several kitesurfing schools now. Dolphin watching season is from November to March, when pods of more than 1000 individuals can be seen. Occasionally, whales can be observed, too. The main kitsurfing season is the monsoon season from June to September, the winds are strong, but Kalpitiya is in the dry zone with only little precipitation during the summer months. A second kitesurfing season is the anti-monsoon between December and February, with less strong winds that are more recommendable for beginners.
Wilpattu is the oldest and largest national park of Sri Lanka. It can be reached on day-trips from Kalpitiya Peninsula or from Anuradhapura, which is at the opposite end of the park. Chances to observe wild elephants and crocodiles are quite good in Wilpattu. But spotting a leopard is a rare event in this park, though it actually has the highest density in leopards anywhere in the world, even more than Yala. But chances to sight the beautiful creatures are not as good as in Yala due to the denser vegetation in Wilpattu. Wilpattu is also known for its birdlife. The coastline of Wilpattue is the ancient Tambapanni, the copper-colour coast, which became namegiving for the entire island of Sri Lanka, which was accordingly known as Taprobane to then ancient Greeks and Romans.
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